Thursday, September 25, 2008

The Coastal Town

It has been over a month since I arrived at my town of birth, now considered a city in many aspects; the beautiful, sun drenched, blue-skied, coconut filled, Island of Mombasa, where winter knows no bounds and 'snow' is a folklore in the tales of the fairies and goblins.

Mombasa hasn't changed too much, contrary to what I had heard prior to returning after more than a decade. The only difference that made its mark were the numerous tuk-tuks that crawl the streets like disturbed ants, while a few new apartment high-rise buildings scattered along the shoreline complement the advancement of time. Other than that, it remains the city that it once was with the charm of the old alleys and side streets, and which somehow manage to look even smaller than what I can recall.

As the 'winter' slowly ended its grip, and I've been told it was signifcantly cooler than previous years, the blessed month of Ramadhan began with the crescent of the moon making as bold a statement as ever. Mombasa is primarily a Muslim dominated city, and so ushering in this glorious month felt markedly different as opposed to when I was living in the West. Structured tables lay arranged over Digo Road, ready to sell dates, deep fried delicacies, and the likes that is often consumed during this blessed month. Once the ninth month of the Islamic calendar crossed the 15th night, stores along certain areas both on the main roads and on the numerous side streets, began opening late into the night, each enticing frenzied shoppers to purchase goods from them, as they swarmed the tarmac roads and cement pavements while the days climaxed towards Eid.

Indeed, Mombasa remains with its old ways, while at the same time, the influx of the modern world slowly creeps in. Residents accept the new without parting from the old - a fantastic approach to combining both worlds. I doubt this coastal town will begin shedding its charm anytime soon. And thats a good thing - for in it lies the attachement so many who have grown up here adore, and miss, as their lives grind away amidst Western societies.